When the government shut down yesterday, the answer was clear about national parks: closed until further notice. But what about national forests? The answer was anything but clear.
I began asking questions Monday morning, the day before the shutdown, only to find every forest spokesperson saying the same thing: "I'm not allowed to talk about that. Here's a number in Washington. Call them." That number didn't even go to the Forest Service's headquarters, it went to the Office of Budget and Management, which had a prompt telling reporters not to leave a message, but email them. So I emailed and waited all day. The response finally came, but it was a generic one-sheet about everything I already knew and nothing about accessing national forests.
Then came Tuesday when all Forest Service websites had a new statement posted to their homepage: "Due to the lapse in federal government funding, the U.S. Forest Service, as with other federal agencies, is closed with the exception of certain essential services." But what that really means is that the offices are closed, not the forests. Or, at least that's the case with Angeles National Forest.
With some of the brightest night skies to be found in Southern California, and some of the haziest air quality, the Inland Empire might not strike you as a place where stargazing is possible. But the region's varied topography and fringing mountain ranges offer spots for night sky viewing that range from the acceptable to the sublime.
We're using former State Historian Kevin Starr's definition of the Inland Empire here, by the way, which includes the eastern section of Los Angeles County in the Pomona Valley. If you disagree, feel free to quibble in comments.
Santa Barbara County boasts that winning combination of limited development, mainly restricted to the 101 Corridor, and lots of mountainous protected open space. It's no surprise that it's a great place to look at stars, as long as the marine layer cooperates. Whether you're heading for the hills or taking advantage of a clear night along the coast, here are five places we especially like for casting our gaze skyward.
1. Jalama Beach County Park
South of Lompoc is about as far west as you can get on the Southern California coast, and its relatively remote location puts it well out of the worst of the county's light pollution zone. On clear nights this can be one of the South Coast's best beaches for stargazing. Downsides include the long wait for camping reservations, and the 14 miles of occasionally bad road to get here from Highway 1, discouraging day-use people who'd like to leave after dark. People with expensive scopes may curse the wind-blown sand. But for meteor shower watching or binocular astronomy practice, it's hard to beat this beach. (Check out our Jalama Beach travel guide.)
2. Lake Cachuma
North of the Santa Ynez Mountains, this fishing reservoir is shielded from the brightest of the county's urban lights along the 101 corridor. Clouds permitting, the Milky Way should be visible here most nights: in fact, you should be able to see some of the Galaxy's structure if your vision is good. You can rent cabins and yurts at the lake, or just find a convenient pullout along Route 154 like this one.
It's less than five hours away from the likely shut down of the U.S. government, but if you looked at the websites of California's national parks, things look normal. Head over to Facebook and you'll see a note about mating tarantulas from Joshua Tree National Park, information about wilderness permits in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, and an announcement of cave openings in Lava Beds National Monument. Things, however, are different behind the scenes. Employees are preparing for closure.
"Instead of doing their jobs, they are planning for the forced and unnecessary shutdown," said Joan Anzelmo of The Coalition of National Park Service Retirees. "Public servants should not be used a pawns in partisans games."
Pawns or not, it's more than public servants who will be affected. Those with vacation plans, small businesses that thrive off parks, and others will face the closure of all national parks in the country.
In Joshua Tree National Park, the gates could swing shut as early as 9:01 p.m. PST and campers will be given 48 hours to vacate, according to Superintendent Mark Butler. In fact, where there are gates and where there are campers, the same is expected across California and the rest of the country.
"The disruption to visitors would be truly disappointing," said Woody Smeck, the superintendent for Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, which generates $160 million annually in visitor spending, supporting thousands of local and regional jobs. "1.7 million people visit the two parks annually. This includes international visitors who are critical to our tourism economy."
Smeck noted that backcountry campers, who likely do not have cell phone reception and little clue about what Congress is doing today, will be allowed to pass through park property if their destination is outside the park, but not be allowed to stay. And that's, of course, if they can be located. "We have to be practical -- it's a large wilderness area. Our primary objective is to protect life, property, and natural and cultural/historical resources."
The heavy rains that hit parts of the desert in recent weeks have created a spectacle that doesn't happen every year: a fall blooming season in the Joshua Tree National Park. Large areas of the park are now blanketed in yellow chinchweed blooms, and the bloom is likely to continue into autumn as the park's shrubs take advantage of the moisture from the storms.
Good places to see the striking fall bloom abound include the Hidden Valley area off Park Boulevard in the Park's high-desert western section, and between Smoke Tree Wash and the Cottonwood Visitor Center along Pinto Basin Road.
San Diego County's night skies were once so dark that the county was a location of choice for researchers to site their observatories. Urban lights have encroached on the county's dark skies since the mid-20th Century, but there are still a lot of stars to gaze at in San Diego County -- enough that some locales are home to astro-tourism businesses. Here are seven of the county's best places to get your night skies on.
1. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
California's largest state park remains one of the best places within an hour of the coast to see night skies. The locals take their stargazing seriously the park's gateway town Borrego Springs was designated by the International Dark Sky Association as the second "Dark Sky Community" in the world. The isolated Little Blair Valley on the west edge of the park gets rave reviews from seasoned stargazers.
2. Tierra Del Sol, Boulevard
The southeastern end of the county is shielded by mountains from the light domes of San Diego/Tijuana to the west, and Mexicali/Imperial County the the east. That means some pretty dark skies, and the local stargazing community takes full advantage. The San Diego Astronomy Association (SDAA) maintains an observing site in the Tierra Del Sol community outside of rural Boulevard where they hold monthly star parties that are open to the public. You'll get a chance to look through the SDAA's 22-inch reflecting telescope and get a guided tour of the sky from seasoned astronomers. The SDAA holds regular star parties throughout the county, so be sure to check out their events page.
It's not even officially fall yet and more reports of fall color peaking in the Eastern Sierra are coming in. Last week it was Bishop Creek Canyon, which is still going strong (see photos from the weekend here with more below), and now there's Rock Creek Canyon, Virginia Lakes, and the Sherwins, all in Mono County.
This has prompted California Fall Color blogger John Poimiroo to issue his second round of "Go Now" alerts of the season.
[Update, September 17: We went in person to check it out and came back with some great news and photos. Read about it here.]
If you were thinking of doing some autumn hue traveling this year, now is the time to start paying attention. Fall color blogger John Poimiroo has issued the first "Go Now!" alerts of the season. It's few weeks earlier than usual, but we're at the whim of Mother Nature -- or, perhaps, the current drought.
The alerts are for two areas in Bishop Creek Canyon: Sabrina Campground and Surveyors Meadow, both which are around 9,000 feet elevation and are currently 50 to 75 percent of peak, which means there is solid color change. Poimiroo expects Sabrina to peak -- that's when the color is at its best -- during the next week or so.