Sorting through the monuments of magical Venice, we trace its decline from Europe's most powerful city to its most hedonistic. We cruise its main street--the Grand Canal, then get lost in the back lanes. For art, it's Titian, Bellini, Donatello, and the Doge's Palace. We luxuriate in a venerable cafe on St. Mark's Square, enjoy calamari with locals in a canal-side pub, then find our own private Venice under the moonlight on a gondola.
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