Irish eyes are smiling when we explore Dublin, Ireland's urban core. There's history around every corner, and Dublin delights with Trinity College, the Book of Kells, the famous Guinness Brewery, and the infamous Kilmainham jail where Irish rebels spent their last days. We liberally sample pub life while tapping our toes to traditional music, and follow in the footsteps of famous Irish writers on a literary pub-crawl. Beyond Dublin, we find inspiration in the hillsides of Glendalough, site of Ireland's revered monastery, and the Hill of Tara, home of the ancient Irish kings. A side trip to Northern Ireland's best folk park brings the Eire of yesteryear to life. Tips on visiting Dublin's literary sites.