We're blessed with a bit of Irish luck as we take on Ireland's ruggedly beautiful west coast. We start in Galway, Europe's fastest growing city, shopping for Irish crystal and Celtic jewelry. Then it'sa salt-sprayed boat trip to the fabled Aran Islands where we reach breathless heights at a Stone Age fort and ferret out traditional hand-knit sweaters. Heading south, we pass through the eerie landscape of the Burren, sample the best of Irish folk music, and binge on a medieval banquet at Bunratty Castle. In the lush forests of Killarney, we visit the country manor of Muckross, before touring the stunning Dingle Peninsula. Tips on renting bicycles.