Writer Levison Wood is in Jordan and visits Petra, one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the world. He then travels to Bethlehem and Jerusalem.

Lev's entire journey through the Middle East has been tough, what with the blistering heat, warzones and delicate cultural issues to navigate. But nowhere is he as challenged as in the West Bank, where the situation is "impossible to get your head round, because the hatred is unfathomable."He meets young Palestinian demonstrators and families who live literally in the shadow of the Israelis. Then, being British, he's allowed to cross through border control to a Jewish Village in Hebron before spending Christmas in Bethlehem. What's really depressing is hearing a Jewish person state, "If Palestinians put down their arms, there will be peace. If Israelis do, there will be no Israel."