13 Restaurants and Organizations Changing the Food Industry for the Better
As Roy Choi explores in the second season of "Broken Bread," the restaurant industry's shortcomings in ethical labor, wage and business practices have never been more extreme. Restaurants have historically relied on the labor of people who are already systemically disadvantaged — BIPOC, immigrant, low-income — and are underpaid, overworked and churning on to meet incessant demand in the wake of a global pandemic. As Wolfgang Puck explains one of the episodes, skyrocketing costs of living against stagnant wages, a culture that normalizes "disposability" of workers and devaluation of goods and labor on various levels of the food production chain, are just some of the factors that contribute to the issues of the food industry today.
And still, the restaurant industry can be a major agent of change and set precedents among industries. Food is one of the greatest connectors of people, preservers of culture and sources of hope in feeding communities. In Los Angeles, some restaurateurs are stepping up to bring their visions of care and ethical practices to life. From transforming a humble storefront into a wide-reaching food bank, to setting up a food distribution system for undocumented workers or simply promising quality food and fair wages to their employees, here are some organizations and restaurants that are doing the work to change the status quo.
Southern California
No Us Without You LA
No Us Without You LA was established during the COVID-19 pandemic to take care of those often overlooked: undocumented, back-of-house restaurant workers and their families. Started by two restaurateurs who identified this need early on to support and uplift those most affected by the system, they set up food distribution programs for undocumented workers, distributing almost 120,000 pounds of food a week, taking caution and changing locations to protect those most vulnerable in their industry.
Bé Ù
Bé Ù is a queer, BIPOC, immigrant-run Vietnamese no-frills restaurant that serves up tasty, affordable meals and prides itself on ethical practices. Owner Uyên Lê previously worked at UCLA's Labor Center and addresses problems she witnessed in worker's rights issues and combats them within her own restaurant. Meals like bánh mì sandwiches cost just under $8 and caramelized pork and eggs over rice will cost you under $11; the prices reflect Bé Ù's commitment to the community it exists in and serves.
Revolutionario North African Tacos
This small, North African taco shop turned into a truly revolutionary food bank in the wake of COVID-19, when the owners decided to start a mutual aid fund and collect food donations to distribute to Asian American organizations and communities hit hardest by the pandemic. Their movement expanded to hot meals for people living on Skid Row, lunches for black seniors in South Central, and more. Now, Revolutionario North African Tacos is preparing to open at a new location in East Koreatown, but it appears that catering is still available.
Homegirl Café
Homegirl Café is an icon in Los Angeles, famous for its delicious food, but also its mission to provide a safe space for the system-impacted women — victims of domestic violence, single parents, gang-involved women and formerly-incarcerated women — who work there. Grab their classic chilaquiles or a bakery treat while supporting the rehabilitative mission of Homeboy Industries.
Pueblo Cafe
Pueblo Cafe is a worker-owned cooperative, drawing from the principles of the Zapatista movement that center decision-making in the hands of the workers. The cafe is currently a pop-up at community events with hopes to eventually provide a space for political education and discussions about gentrification happening in South Central L.A.
Proof Bakery
Proof Bakery in Atwater Village used to follow a traditional business model, but has transitioned to a worker-run cooperative in 2021. The worker-owned model champions "an inclusive, sustainable environment for everyone who works at the bakery," creating an equitable model of ownership where all workers have a seat at the table. Enjoy your yummy croissant knowing that it came from a place of social responsibility and respect for everyone who made it possible.
MAMA Los Angeles Drive-By Kitchen
MAMA Los Angeles pioneers a food pickup-concept in the wake of COVID-19, where they curate meal packages by local legacy ethnic restaurants — and allow audiences to pick up specially curated meals at multiple "pop-ups" throughout L.A. This is their way of helping keep mom-and-pop shops who might have less foot traffic during a pandemic afloat. Their Instagram page highlights immigrant chefs and longtime food traditions, and 100% of profits from meal sales go back to the participating restaurants. They also give back to local community organizations. From Jade Wok in Chinatown to Hwang Hae Doe in Koreatown, these meal collaborations are showstoppers.
Yang's Kitchen
Yang's Kitchen is a Chinese-fusion restaurant in L.A. that rose to prominence with Chinese and Taiwanese staples such as Braised Beef Noodle Soup and aims to keep their food affordable and pay their workers fair, ethical wages — sharing tips with all employees, including kitchen staff. They also strive to source local, sustainable and organic as much as possible.
Hot + Cool Cafe
Hot + Cool Cafe is a Black-owned, family-operated coffee shop and vegan cafe based in Leimert Park Village on a mission to ensure all neighbors have access to healthy food, Black-centered arts and culture, employment opportunities and training. The cafe's location at Leimert Park was a deliberate choice made by owners Tony Jolly and Tina Amin to serve an area that has historically been a food desert. Hot + Cool Cafe creates opportunities for underserved youth and formerly incarcerated people through employment opportunities and job training. Apart from the work done within their brick and mortar, Hot + Cool Cafe serves their community through partnerships with various non-profits and community programs like their Senior Meal Program that tackles food inequity in South L.A.
Northern California
The Cheeseboard Collective
The Cheeseboard Collective is a pizzeria, cheese shop and bakery that has been worker-owned since 1971 when the original owners sold the business to their employees. Since then, the Cheeseboard Collective has served up bread and cheeses to the greater Bay Area while ensuring an equitable and democratic workplace. Members work in a close-knit environment with opportunities for involvement in every aspect of business operations. All workers are paid a living wage of $24 per hour as of January 2022 and receive a share of the profits based on the number of hours worked.
Arizmendi Bakery
Named after Basque labor-organizer José Maria Arizmendiarrieta, Arizmendi Bakery is a worker-owned cooperative bakery based in Oakland. Inspired by the now-famous San Francisco-based cooperative Cheeseboard, Arizmendi Bakery opened in 2000, inspired by the now-famous San Francisco-based cooperative Cheeseboard. Arizmendi serves a rotating menu with traditional breads like multi-seeded sourdough to experimental products like gochujang sourdough.
Reem's California
Reem's California is an Arab corner bakery started by restaurateur and activist Reem Assil. After working as a labor and community organizer for a decade, Assil operates Reem's California with the same values of community building, social justice and sustainability. Hiring locally, providing living wages and building leadership in workers are some of the ways Reem's California prioritizes the wellbeing of their staff. Amid the pandemic, Reem's California sought to make meals for frontline workers, unhoused people and low-income community members while also cooking meal kits for customers.
Mandela Grocery Cooperative
Mandela Grocery Cooperative is a worker-owned grocery store that sources from local entrepreneurs and farmers in California with a focus on Black and brown farmers and food makers. Unlike conventional supermarkets and grocery stores, Mandela is operated, centrally governed and democratically controlled by worker-owners. Their small neighborhood store has an assortment of departments from local and organic produce and hormone-free dairy to pet food and natural bath and beauty products.
This is by no means an exhaustive list. If you know of any more restaurants and food organizations, please let us know. Tag us on Facebook @KCET.
